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Changes to Walking Routes: All significant changes up to October 2006 are now incorporated 'Herziene Uitgave 2007' All further revisions up to October 2007 are now in 'Update 2008' and available to download from that page. 'Herziene Uitgave 2008' will follow as soon as I receive it from my translator.
May-July 2007:- Walk 1, page 2, para 4:-(Nederlands:- pagina 2, alinea 4) Mithimna Castle has been closed since the beginning of 2007 for the building of a new entrance and other works. It seems likely to stay closed at least until the end of this season. Page 3, para 3:- (Nederlands:- pagina 3, alinea 3) The main drain across the Dapia is being replaced as part of major works to improve Mithimna's drainage system. The contractors seem to be taking reasonable care not to obstruct the paths, but inevitably there may be some temporary disruption. Walk 6, page 14, para 3:- (Nederlands:- pagina 14, alinea 3) There are now no signs at the entrance to this track, but it is fenced and unmistakeable. Walk 8, page 20, para 7:- (Nederlands:- pagina 21, alinea 7) The road into Vafios is becoming busier, and the whole length of the left-hand verge was dug up in June to lay new water pipes. To avoid this take the track diagonally off to the left (now with a green fingerpost ΣΤΑΥΡΟΥΛΑ - ΒΑΦΕΙΟΣ) and follow it uphill for about five minutes to a fork. Go downhill to the right (signed ΒΑΦΕΙΟΣ) and in another ten minutes fork right again. This track leads steeply downhill and in five minutes meets the top of the concrete road into the village (page 21, para 2, Nederlands:- pagina 22, alinea 2). Turn left along the paved street into the village. Walk 25, page 58, para 2:- (Nederlands:- pagina 63, alinea 2) For an alternative start to this walk turn off the main road through Anaxos opposite Studios Anessis down the tarmac street next to a partly-built apartment block. (This is the last street in the village going towards Skoutaros). In about five minutes keep left at the fork (the right fork becomes a river bed and leads under several low bridges before coming out on the beach). Carry straight on along the concrete lane, ignoring a turning on the left, and where the lane ends, with a small-holding on the right, continue on the path ahead (do not go left into the olive grove) In a couple of minutes keep left at the junction of two paths, and rejoin the walk at page 58 para 3 (Nederlands:- pagina 63, alinea 3)
NB At the end of May I had an email suggesting that the cliff-top path to Ambelia was being used by trail-bikers who were damaging the path and endangering walkers. I was unable to get further details from the sender because his return address was either accidentally or deliberately garbled (yes, radders@******ve.fsnet it's you I'm talking about here) I did the walk in early June and saw no evidence of bikes, not even a tyre mark, but it may be as well to be aware of the possibility, particularly at weekends.
February 2007:- Walk 5, page 12, para 6:- (Nederlands:- pagina 12, alinea 6) This gate has now been removed.
Roads
The track leading from the Molivos-Vafios road past the reservoir to Petra (used by walks 7, 12 & 13) has now been widened and asphalted throughout its length, except for the steep hill at the half-way point past what used to be the double ponds. Possibly nobody has yet decided how to get down this hill. I am told that this is intended as a relief road during the regular cliff falls on the coast road above Petra harbour. (This note is now incorporated in 'Update 2007' & 'Herziene Uitgave 2007' for the walks affected)
The new road under construction at Stipsi is simply a much needed bypass running below and south of the town (contrary to the local rumour mill that had it as an alternative route to Mitilene, bypassing Kalloni) Major excavations at the end of October 2006 turn out to have been simply site preparation for a large new warehouse.
And ten years after the widening and improvement of the first section of the main road from Kalloni to Mitilene as far as Lambou Mili, there is now major work going on towards the Mitilene end. This is widening and re-aligning the road almost as far as the beginning of the one-way system leading in to the town, with a spur by-passing the town and leading to the coast road near the power station.
July 2006
Snakes
The poisonous snake mentioned on page ix, para 6 (Nederlands:- pagina ix, alinea 6) is the Nose-horned Viper, which is extremely venomous (though it is also described as 'slow and rather phlegmatic, not very irascible'). However in ten years of wandering around Lesvos I have only seen one specimen (this spring, ten metres from my front door. As it had just been beheaded by my neighbour the illustration above is taken from 'Collins Field Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians'); you are more likely to encounter the Montpellier Snake:- European Cat Snake:-
(photo Collins as above)
or the Large Whip Snake:- I have also seen, but not photographed, a water snake, probably a Grass Snake: - The first two of these have venomous fangs, but at the back of the jaw where they are unlikely to do any damage to humans; the others are harmless. (photo Collins as above)
April 2006
Several readers seem to have had problems with gates during 2005. I'm not sure why; they were neither more or less prolific or complicated than in previous years. Briefly, any barrier across a path or track is a gate, whether it's made of an old bed-frame, a length of concrete reinforcing mesh, one or more wooden pallets, a pile of brushwood, or, rarely, a professionally made steel construction. Unless it's padlocked shut and set in a high fence or wall, you are free to go through it. Fastenings may be any or all of a forked stick, a length of rope, or most often, a more or less intricate array of twisted wire - skill in working out puzzles is an advantage. Try to leave the fastening as secure as you found it.
Incidentally, I have been told that legally one is entitled to climb over any fence less than 1 metre high - I have not put this to the test! Certainly there is a legal right for anyone to go into any field to gather 'horta', the wild greens used in salads.
Also still relevant:- May 2005:- Walk 17, page 43, para 3:- (Nederlands:- pagina 44, alinea 1) My brother, who is visiting Lesvos for the first time, and who followed this route without me, thinks this paragraph is misleading. He points out that if you follow the cliff path to the bottom you are already on the land side of the fence, and that the instruction should be to descend on to the rocks before you reach the fence. I think my readers have enough intelligence to work this out for themselves, but there you go.
As someone who walks a good deal in the English Lake District, he also thinks that I have underestimated the difficulty of this descent, and that he would not normally undertake it without boots. Naturally I disagree, and I have had no previous complaints, but would welcome more comments on this.
Finally, be warned that with high water and an on-shore wind you may well get your feet wet on these rocks and the narrow beach that follows.
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