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Around Kalloni
Situated at the head of the Gulf of Kalloni, almost at the centre of Lesvos,
Kalloni is the natural hub of the island, both geographically and commercially.
As well as the wide and thriving main street, full of the usual mix of butchers, greengrocers, hardware stores, cafés and banks, the town supports three supermarkets,
four electrical stores, each with a wide range of upmarket kitchen appliances,
and an improbable number of hairdressers and lingerie shops.
The main bus interchange for the island is also here, with connections
for school and service buses from the north and west.
Around Kalloni there are a number of interesting places to visit if you have a car -
they are not really practicable without.
Coming from Petra or Molivos this selection provides a day trip in anti-clockwise order:-
The Convent of Myrsiniotisis
Shortly after the beginning of the long flat straight leading into Kalloni a dirt road
leads off to the right to the convent of the Virgin of Myrsiniotisis,
founded in 1527 as a sister community to the nearby monastery of Limonas.
Nestling into the side of a south-facing hill, the timbered cloisters
grouped around gardens have a peace and intimacy which should appeal
to even the most unregenerate visitor.
Together with the monks of Limonas, the nuns here helped to preserve the native Lesviot
spirit and culture during the most oppressive years of the Turkish occupation.
Limonas Monastery
At the next crossroads towards Kalloni, the road to the right runs through Dafia
and after about three kilometres uphill leads to the monastery of Limonas,
founded in 1523.
In layout not unlike a traditional university college, this complex is completely
different in scale to Myrsiniotisis, but retains much of its peaceful atmosphere.
Most of its monastic cells are now empty, and its depopulation
is reflected in its increasing dilapidation.
There are two small museums, one of icons and offerings
to the Archangel Michael, patron saint of the monastery, from grateful petitioners,
and a folk history collection probably of more interest to the secular visitor.
Continuing to Kalloni, and turning left towards Mitilene,
the road leads out through the suburb of Arisvi
(the city of Arisvi, one of the six original city states of ancient Lesvos,
lay on a hill to the north-east),
and a few kilometres further on comes to the
Kalloni Salt Pans
At the head of the Gulf of Kalloni, where it is passed by the main road to Mitilene,
the shallow waters have been divided into evaporation pools for salt production.
These are colonised by flocks of flamingoes, egrets, and other water birds,
and you can sometimes see storks, which nest in the outskirts of Kalloni.
(For more about the birds of Lesvos, see 'Birding in Lesvos', and other books
by Richard Brooks, obtainable locally or from www.amazon.co.uk)
From the salt pans turn left to Agia Paraskevi
a prosperous small town 4 kilometres north of the Kalloni salt pans,
and a good place to stop for coffee or a midday break.
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A short distance beyond the town, on the road north
towards Mandamados, a dirt road to the right leads to Kremasti Bridge.
Kremasti Bridge
Built in the 14th or 15th century, this elegant arch was once part of
an important trade route between Mitilene and the north of the island,
and has survived six hundred years in almost perfect condition.
From the bridge the dirt road leads on to join the Kalloni - Petra road south of Stipsi.
Turn left for Kalloni, right for Molivos, Petra, and Anaxos.
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